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What Do You Call a Bar Without Booze?

LAST MONDAY evening, the scene at 3 Bleecker Street in Manhattan was familiar enough. It looked like a bar. There was an actual bar, first of all, lined with stools. There was someone tending that bar, reaching for jiggers and Boston shakers when a drink order called for them. There was a menu listing $11 cocktails such as the She Pretty, made with strawberries, rosewater and an egg white—but no beer, wine or spirits.

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